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Call For Papers: Archiving Fashion Conference: Mapping Fashion Collections

November 11, 2023 | 10am-4pm

Katie Murphy Amphitheater |Fashion Institute of Technology – State University of New York

In-person and virtual formats

Following the “Archiving Fashion Workshop” held at The American University in Paris in June 2022, The Fashion Institute of Technology-State University of New York will host an international academic conference, “Archiving Fashion: Mapping Fashion Collections,” on November 11th, 2023, in New York City.

The keynote event will be the launch of FIT’s Fashion Calendar Research Database, part of the digital humanities project, “The Ruth Finley Collection: Digitizing 70 Years of the Fashion Calendar,” funded by a “Hidden Collections” grant from The Council on Library and Information Resources [CLIR], and made possible with funding from The Andrew W. Mellon Foundation.

This conference will gather scholars, researchers, archivists, librarians, faculty, students, and professionals for a one-day event (with optional second day of programming for speakers) to discuss the present and future of fashion and textiles, and related material, in archives. Papers considering the impact on access to archives and libraries during the Covid-19 pandemic and the various institutional responses to it, as well as other topics, are welcome.

The first objective of this conference is to map as many archives (public and private), museums, institutions, associations, libraries, collections and repositories that are either dedicated to fashion and textiles, or unrelated collections (that could be non-fashion archives) that contain fashion and textiles related materials, including but not limited to textual, visual, technical, multimedia and material collections.

The second objective of this conference is to identify recently completed, and/or current educational, scientific, artistic, and social projects developed from archival research and/or archive-based projects (exhibitions, books, digital humanities, database development, virtual exhibitions, etc…)​.

Further, the conference aims to stimulate discussion about the challenges of fashion archives restoration, conservation, and exhibition and the exploration of the potential of digital humanities for fashion archives.​

In addition, a fourth objective is to encourage discussion regarding the scope and limits of what we consider being a “fashion archive” and the goal to expand and decolonize the study of fashion and textiles. This conference strongly encourages papers addressing lesser-known “fashion archives,” such as archives of now-forgotten couturiers and couturières, designers, makers, folk artists, archives of labor and workers in the fashion industry, corporate archives, archives of fashion institutions outside of Europe/America, and those about workwear, daily wear, and craft.

A dedicated open-source website indexing global fashion archives that uses mapping technologies will be made available after the conference. The committee welcomes proposals of a variety of presentation formats including panel discussions, short research papers, long-format papers, and short archive introduction/overview presentations.

The committee encourages proposals that address diversity, equity, inclusion, and social justice as it relates to fashion archives. We encourage proposals that center global archives and collections and those pertaining to historically under-represented groups, including but are not limited to—persons with disabilities, LGBTQIA+ individuals, and people of Hispanic or Latino, Black or African-American, Asian, Middle Eastern, Native Hawaiian or Pacific Islander, First Nations, Native American, or Alaskan Native descent.

The committee especially welcomes scholars and individuals who identify as any of the previously mentioned groups to apply, as well those working in non-English language spheres.

Presentation/Paper Formats

  • Short archive presentations, virtual or in-person (presentations that feature interesting pieces or objects from their archive or brief overviews of the archive’s holdings) 5-10 minutes
  • Short papers 10-15 minutes,
  • Long-format papers 20 minutes
  • Digital Humanities and Research Platform presentations 10-15 minutes
  • Panel discussions 15-20 minutes

Dates

  • Submission Deadline: February 28th, 2023
    • 250-word abstract or proposal
    • 200-word author bio(s)
    • The names of collections or archives that you would like to submit to the mapping project

PLEASE NOTE: Conference dates for accepted presenters are November 10th and 11th, 2023. Presenters are invited to an optional afternoon schedule on November 10th, 2023 that will include fashion archive visits at FIT and around New York City, followed by a networking event.

The public conference will be held on Saturday, November 11, 2023.

Please send proposals and abstracts to: archivingfashionconference@gmail.com 

 

  • Response: March 28th, 2023

 

Scientific Committee

Hilary Davidson, FIT-SUNY, NY

Justine De Young, FIT-SUNY, NY

Gianluigi Di Giangirolamo, Université Paris I Panthéon Sorbonne, France

Lourdes Font, FIT-SUNY, NY

Steeve Gallizia, INPI, France

Sophie Kurkdjian, American University of Paris, France

Natalie Nudell, FIT-SUNY, NY

Karen Trivette, FIT-SUNY, NY

 

CFP: Special issue of French Historical Studies on FASHION HISTORY!

Call for Papers: Special Issue on the History of French Fashion

The editors of French Historical Studies seek articles for a special issue on the theme of fashion in French history to appear in 2020.

It is not very long ago that the history of fashion was not considered a legitimate or respectable focus of historical interest.  It was lightweight stuff—all right for journalists and popularizers more interested in puff than in the hard, nasty business of real historical research. This has changed dramatically in the last thirty years—dating from the publication of Valerie Steele’s Paris Fashion: A Cultural History (1988)—and fashion has become the focus of some of the most sophisticated and interesting work of a new generation of scholars.

Our notion of possible approaches to this topic is capacious, as befits the wide range of scholarship currently being done: Fashion as aesthetics; fashion as work; fashion as social comment; fashion as revolutionary (or counter-revolutionary) discourse; fashion as shopping; fashion as business; fashion as an artifact of war and occupation; fashion as a weapon of imperialism; fashion as an expression of gender; fashion as an element of ethnic and class identity; fashion as a political strategy or the object of repression (think Zoot Suits and veils).  All is potentially grist for our mill.

Queries about submission and other matters should be addressed to the guest editors: Maude Bass-Krueger (maudebk@gmail.com), Sophie Kurkdjian (sokurkdjian@gmail.com), and Steve Zdatny (steven.zdatny@uvm.edu).

To submit an article, visit https://www.editorialmanager.com/fhs/default.aspx. After registering, follow the submission instructions under “Instructions for Authors” on the website.  Articles may be in either English or in French but must in either case conform to French Historical Studies style (for details, see https://www.dukeupress.edu/French-Historical-Studies/) and must be accompanied by 150-word abstracts in both French and English.  Manuscripts should be between 6,000 and 10,000 words.  For any illustrations authors must obtain written permission for both print and online publication from the relevant persons or institutions.  The deadline for submissions is July 1, 2018.

***

Les éditeurs de French Historical Studies lancent un appel à articles pour un numéro spécial de la revue sur le thème de la mode dans l’histoire française, à paraître en 2020. Il n’y a pas longtemps que l’histoire de la mode a commencé à être considérée comme légitime ou comme digne d’intérêt historique. Jusque récemment, la mode était une affaire légère – tout juste bonne pour les journalistes et les vulgarisateurs, davantage intéressés par les anecdotes amusantes que par la véritable recherche historique. Cela a radicalement changé au cours des trente dernières années – après la publication du livre Paris Fashion: A Cultural History (1988) de Valerie Steele – et la mode est dès lors devenue l’objet de plusieurs travaux parmi les plus sophistiqués et intéressants menés par une nouvelle génération d’universitaires.

Notre notion des approches possible de ce sujet est large, reflétant par-là la grande variété des études actuellement menées sur la mode : la mode comme esthétique, la mode comme travail, la mode comme fait social, la mode comme discours révolutionnaire (ou contre-révolution), la mode comme pratique de shopping, la mode comme business, la mode comme reflet de la société en temps de guerre et/ou à l’époque de l’Occupation allemande, la mode comme arme impérialiste, la mode comme expression du genre, la mode comme élément d’identité sociale ou ethnique, la mode comme stratégie politique ou objet de répression (des costumes zazou au voile). Toutes les approches seront susceptibles d’alimenter notre réflexion.

Les propositions d’article et toutes vos questions sont à adresser à nos éditeurs invités : Maude Bass-Krueger (maudebk@gmail.com), Sophie Kurkdjian (sokurkdjian@gmail.com), et Steve Zdatny (steven.zdatny@uvm.edu).

Pour soumettre un article, veuillez consulter https://www.editorialmanager.com/fhs/default.aspx. Après vous être enregistré, suivez les instructions de la section « Instructions for Authors ». Les articles peuvent être soumis en anglais ou en français, mais, dans les deux cas, ils doivent être conformes au style de le revue French Historical Studies (pour les détails, voir https://www.dukeupress.edu/French-Historical-Studies/), et doivent être accompagnés d’un résumé de 150 mots rédigé à la fois en français et en anglais. Les manuscrits doivent comporter entre 6 000 et 10 000 mots (notes non comprises). Concernant les illustrations, les auteurs doivent obtenir la permission écrite de pouvoir les publier sous forme papier et digitale de la part des personnes dépositaires des droits sur ces images, ou de la part des responsables des institutions d’où les images sont originaires. La date limite pour soumettre les articles est fixée au 1erjuillet 2018.